[胡同里的叫卖声] 我爱北京的小胡同

　　说起济南胡同里的老字号,最多不过芙蓉街了。这条宽不过4米,长不过500米的街巷,连同交叉的芙蓉巷、金菊巷和平泉胡同等支巷在内,至全盛时商号多达140余家。什么裁缝铺、首饰店、染坊、书馆、照相馆、乐器行、诊所、铜匠、银匠铺、眼镜店、杂货店、鞋帽店、服装店乃至青楼妓馆等一应俱全,成为济南开埠前最为繁盛的街市,引领济南消费时尚,从而也构成一幅老济南世俗风情画卷。
　　街的南首有两幢斜对着的高三层的西式楼房,路西那幢灰色的为山东教育图书社,由山东著名教育家鞠思敏、王祝晨等人1913年发起创办,30年代后由大布政司街(今省府前街)迁此重建,成为解放前旧城内的新式的最高建筑。
　　路东方方正正的那栋红砖楼则是20年代建立的广利顺杂货店。系旧城内最早采用机制红砖的建筑,在老城内一片黑瓦青砖的海洋里格外醒目。尤其采用新式的玻璃柜窗,方便了商品的陈列,成为济南现代商店的雏型。“广利顺”经销的品种有服装、鞋帽、绸缎、丝绣、进口瓷器、玻璃器皿、上弦启动的火车、轮船之类的儿童玩具等“洋广杂货”,成为当时老城内最为时尚的卖场。
　　芙蓉街南口向北第一个向东去的岔路是一条与之同名的小巷――芙蓉巷,巷中段路北、平泉胡同东侧是“大成永”鞋帽庄。这里生产的鞋子在城里很有名气,当时有这样的顺口溜:“头戴一品冠,衣穿大有缎,脚踏大成永”,不难看出这一品牌的地位。现存的这座清末创建的三进四合院,系明清时期商业建筑盛行的“前店后坊”式,至今二进院门上还保留着如意纹样和象征福禄的砖雕。房舍挑檐下还有狮子滚绣球等石雕、砖雕造型,象征财源滚滚。
　　“大成永”东邻原有一座娇小玲珑的二层小楼,这便是济南首家卫生镶牙馆。创始人张巽辰,临清人,早年留学日本,回国后在上海行医,后来济南开诊所。所以从这座建筑看得出有上海弄堂及小洋楼的某些特点,北侧相连的又是典型的济南四合院。这家“袖珍”式的齿科诊所无疑在济南医药卫生史上占有重要地位。
　　镶牙馆对面偏东,原有一家剁斧石到顶的二层楼房,形制欧化,体量虽不太大,像座别墅,但很是厚重,稳稳地立在那里。从墙上镶嵌的“照相”二字和建筑年代刻记推断,它便是建于1931年的兰亭照相馆,在当时城内其规模列各照相馆之首,从这个侧面也反映出这条街巷所经历过的“摩登”时代。
　　旧时济南有四大鲁菜馆,两家在芙蓉街,一是燕喜堂,二是东鲁饭庄。燕喜堂老号位于金菊巷东首,创建于1932年3月,时值南燕北归时节,便得了这个雅号。创办人赵子俊,科班出身,对菜品质量和特色的要求很高,在烹饪技艺上追求典型的老济南风味,时称“历下风味”,以清汤、奶汤等汤菜见长。
　　与燕喜堂几乎同一时期创立于芙蓉街中段路东的是一家以经营胶东菜和承办大型喜寿宴席为主的东鲁饭庄。前后共两进四合院,院落很大,东西还有侧院,可同时摆放100多桌酒席,其规模旧城内独此一家。据说当年韩复榘娶儿媳妇时,就曾在此大摆喜宴。
　　今金菊巷14号门楼,过去是书画装裱老字号英华斋。1913年英华斋创始人白少杰从北京荣宝斋学艺回来,先在龙神庙街开店,1920年迁此。在当时的老城内很有名气,工作人员有20余位。英华斋的绝活是古旧字画的揭裱。
　　在传统的老字号中,现在只有三山眼镜店和玉谦旗袍店了。济南最早销售水晶眼镜的店铺始称“一珊号”,后改成“三仙号”,传到今天三山眼镜店掌门人张广海老汉手中,已经历了四代。而位于街巷深处的玉谦旗袍店则有着百余年的历史。这家店铺不大的裁缝铺是清同治年间创立,今天的掌柜的于仁谦是第5代传人。家里至今保留着祖上用过的烙铁、粉线袋、浆刀子、镘头、铁登以及美制的“胜家”牌老式缝纫机等老家什。
　　从芙蓉街向东穿过花墙子街和辘轳把子街,便至后宰门街。其中也有几家老字号很值得翻翻家谱。济南有道名菜“九转大肠”,就诞生于这条街东首路南的“九华楼”饭庄。“九华楼”面积不大,但建筑考究,南面各有一两层楼围成四合院。天井中有泉池,系过去店里养活鱼所用。店主杜氏是清代济南富商,特喜欢“九”字,所开九家商号都冠以“九”字。“九转大肠”之名,即显示了掌柜的“九”字癖,又说明这道菜的烹饪过程之复杂如炼道家九转金丹。
　　与九华楼相比,街中段路南的“同元楼”饭庄名气更大。虽以楼命名,却是一座门楼内分为两个平行的两进四合院,西侧为店铺、厨房、东侧为住宅,各个院子相通。珍珠泉和珍池(当地人俗称鸭子湾)流出的清澈泉水成明渠,流经院内天井,店家用木箱放进池水中放养鲤鱼供客人选点。饭庄的特色是蒲菜猪肉灌汤包、金丝卷、银丝卷、素菜包等面食。
　　济南人口重,满城酱菜飘香。这条街上原有家有名的酱菜店远兴斋酱园,据说生意最火时,能装五百多斤酱菜的大缸就有三百多个,占据了街东首向南至珍池的多处院落。这里不仅酱菜做得好,而且用玫瑰花酿制的“玫瑰池”烧酒也远近闻名。
　　说起济南的酱菜,不能不提西关江家池子巷的两座酱园。巷口东侧是“北厚记”酱园,巷子尽头路西则是名气更大的字号“醴泉居”酱园。北厚记是章丘人的杰作,始创于19世纪80年,其第三代店主石绍先曾在20年代担任过济南的商会会长,其地位和影响略见一斑。
　　醴泉对面巷子东侧是著名的江家池,系七十二泉之一,属五龙潭泉群中第二大泉。因明代官至陕西按察副使的历城人江浚祖居在此而得名。石砌泉池中放养着鲤鱼。其中有少量红鲤鱼,人称锦鲤。这些鱼系吃斋念佛的人买来送此放养的,故该池又称“放生池”。清道光年间,池北建饭店,初名“锦盛楼”。1941年店员们凑钱买下锦盛楼,扩建后又改“德盛楼”,最后改名汇泉楼饭庄。
　　
　　Most of old and famous shops exist in the Lotus Street which is of 4m in width and nearly 500m in length. There were over 140 shops in its heyday including tailor’s shop, Jewelry shop, dye house, library, photo studio, musical instrument shop, clinic, coppersmith, silversmith shop, optician’s, grocery store, shoe and cap shop, clothing store, and even brothel in Lotus Street together with the intersecting Lotus Lane, Jinju Lane and Pingquan Alley, making it the most prosperous market before the opening of Jinan as a port. It leads the consumers’ fashion in Jinan, thus constituting a picture of secular custom of Jinan.
　　In the south end of the street stand two three-storeyed western-style buildings facing to each other at an angle. The gray building to the west of the road is Shandong Education Bookstore, which was established in 1913 by famous educators such as Ju Simin and Wang Zhuchen etc.. After the 1930s, the Dabuzhengsi (Chief Secretary) Street (today’s Shengfu Qianjie) was moved here and reconstructed, becoming the most updated and highest building in the old city before liberation. In old days, it mainly engaged in selling books of the Zhonghua Book Company, as well as stationery and educational equipment, and was popular with readers.
　　The square building made of red bricks to the east of the road is Guanglishun Grocery Store established in 1920s. As the first one using red brick, the building becomes extraordinarily eye-catching among buildings with black roof-tiles. In particular, the glass and wood cabinet adopted was convenient for displaying goods and became the prototype of modern shops. The goods sold by “Guanglishun” were “foreign groceries” including clothes, shoes and hats, silk, silk embroideries, imported porcelain, glassware, clockwork trains and ships. Guanglishun thus became the most fashionable marketplace at that time.
　　Walking northward from the south end of the Lotus Street, and turning to right at the first sideway leading to the east, you will find the small alley called Lotus Lane, which adopts the same name as Lotus Street. At the north side of the middle section, and at the east side of Pingquan Alley is “Dachengyong” shoes and hats shop. The shoes produced here were very famous in the city, thus there was such a jingle as “wearing the hat of Yipinguan, clothing of Dayou Silk Shop, and shoes of Dachengyong”. It easily reveals the popularity of the brand. The existing courtyard built in the late Qing Dynasty (A.D.1644~1911) adopted the style of “shop in front and workshop at back” which was popular in commercial buildings in the Ming and Qing Dynasties. Even now, the pattern design of Ruyi and tile carvings representing happiness and wealth are still preserved. Under the roof overhang of the house are carvings on stone and brick with the pattern of the “lion playing with an embroidered ball” and other patterns representing big fortune.
　　 The delicate two-storeyed building to the east of “Dachengyong” Shop is the first dental practice in Jinan, which was founded by Zhang Xunchen, with Linqing as his native place. He studied in Japan in his early years, and then practiced medicine in Shanghai after returning to China, and later on he opened a clinic in Jinan. Therefore, we can find certain characteristics of Shanghai alleys and western-style buildings from the architecture, attached to what is a typical Jinan quadrangle courtyard. The “pocket-size” dental clinic undoubtedly played an important role in Jinan health and medical history.

相关热词搜索：叫卖声 胡同里 胡同里的叫卖声 叫卖声 叫卖声声