[绝壁上的郭亮村] 现在去郭亮村好玩吗

　　习惯了青山绿水独钓太湖的隐士风格,看惯了亭台楼榭羽扇纶巾的豪迈气度,乍一看到这陡岩峭壁,脑海中浮现的就是――不可能。这不是人类能久居的天籁之地,更不是文人雅士谈笑风生的佳所,但看这山势险绝,蛮石突兀,惟用原始荒古才能形容。
　　的确,没有车水马龙的兴盛,没有人来熙攘的繁闹,没有灯红酒绿的迷离,也没有云仙雾饶的忘我……这里真是一处被上帝遗忘的旮旯。
　　
　　但,它就是存在的。地处山西与河南两省交界处的密林山中,海拔高达1752米,这就是绝壁上的村庄――郭亮村。千百年来,它缄默不语,安详地在悬崖峭壁上扎根,不能不说是一个奇迹。
　　抵达郭亮村,必须穿行太行大峡谷。峡谷绝壁的岩石呈肉红色,耸直陡峭,高有200米,像快斧整劈过一样,格调雄浑,令人生畏。要攀上顺天梯登上崖顶是件很不容易的事情。天梯是由块块不整齐的岩石垒起,或直接在90度角的岩壁上凿出来的石坑组成。走在云梯上,头顶密布的乌云使峡谷更显磅礴大气,绝壁缝隙填满双眼,险峰深壑足以震慑灵魂。仰望所见只是石梯底面,俯瞰峡谷但听水浪翻滚,涛声回荡,此时,上下两难,煞有骑虎难下、举步维艰之感。
　　屏住呼吸,手扶天梯,冷汗连连,此时若东张西望,定会让浩瀚的山体震慑得头晕目眩,掉入深不见底的深谷粉身碎骨吧。很难想象,千百年前,古人是如何打开通往云层的天梯的?若没有过人的胆识和强健的四肢,单是望一眼这苍茫山体,也会胆战心惊吧。
　　
　　当黑色浓云吞噬了阳光,压向大峡谷时,岩壁掩却肉红身躯,以阴暗来进一步衬托云的晦暗。云和山,就这样浑然一体,即便你目眦欲裂,也难将这全景尽收眼底,反而被凝重的气势震撼收服。
　　这条绝壁路,曾是大山通往中原惟一的古道,因极其险要,也成就了其与世隔绝的现状。直到上世纪70年代,山民们打通了郭亮洞,才打开了村子与外界交流的窗口,随之便逐步废弃了这条几百年来的“热线”。
　　抵达郭亮村,它的朴实随处可见:石磨、石碾、石巷、石桌、石凳、石床、石阶、石房、石坝、石路、石碗、石筷、石桥、石斧、石锄⋯⋯让人完全溶浸在石头的奇妙怀抱之中。
　　据说,郭亮村建于西汉末年。当时王莽建立“新”王朝,这期间爆发了大规模的农民起义,其中以农民领袖郭亮最为著名,一举建立农民政权。郭亮欲借太行绝壁峡谷与敌交战,不幸兵败山西,后人为纪念这位农民英雄,将他当年战斗过的大本营誉为郭亮村,延传至今。
　　后来,在明末清初,有申姓家族为躲避战乱苦役,躲进太行山并隐居于郭亮村,世代在此繁衍生息。现在的郭亮村有80多户人家,约300多人,大都为申氏。
　　
　　石头是郭亮村的象征,是郭亮村的灵魂。坚如磐石的郭亮村村民世代恪守祖辈先训,驻守这方天外之村,虽逢夏季常受山洪、滑坡的侵袭,但天灾之后,村民们又痴情地垒起“新家”。
　　现在,郭亮村已经告别与世隔绝的边缘村庄,成为现代人竞相参观体验原始生命的地方。这要归功于郭亮洞的开通。
　　郭亮洞是村民们历经5年、在绝壁中硬生生一锤一锤凿出来的镂空石洞,高4米,宽6米,全长1300米,可容两辆大客车交错通过。这条绝壁长廊,被日本裕田影视公司惊为“世界第九大奇迹”。
　　绝壁长廊郭亮洞,似蛟龙蜿蜒盘旋在万丈石壁岩边,洞内忽明忽暗,洞边依着山形凿出形状不规则的大小山窗。这是修路之初用于向外倾倒石沙的,现在倒成了窗形景色绝不重样的美景之窗。从窗口向外望去,入眼的要么是红色山崖,要么是黄绿葱郁的树枝树叶,要么便是一道挂在山崖上的白色瀑布。壮阔的太行美景,百窗百景百看不厌。
　　洞外瀑布,如一泻而下的玉壶美酒,闻之,耳目清爽;饮之,甘冽沁甜。洞下水潭碧绿诱人,牛羊悠然自得徜徉于奇石丛林之间,轻轻捧一掌晶莹潭水,水中定有明丽的笑容。
　　穿过绝壁长廊就是崖上人家。这是坐落在海拔1279米高的崖边上的农家院落。明末清初建立之初,就地取材,木柱石墙,浑厚古朴,院落朝东,院外3米就是悬崖,挨着崖边生长着一排粗壮的黄榆树,像忠诚守护的战士。这是现存最好的太行古民居,因地势险要,故称崖上人家。
　　郭亮洞不远处还有著名的万仙山喊泉。顾名思义,喊泉真如其名,站在泉下,抬头大喊,骤然间瀑布从天而降,飘染全身。喊声过后,又恢复往日的寂静。
　　世人绝不会想到,翻越重山万岭,在如此其貌不扬的石体间,竟会藏着这样一处世外桃源,不是肥土沃壤,却朴素真实;没有奢华迷醉,却灯火温馨。这是在混沌忙碌的繁华世界找寻不到的单纯角落,这里是可以让灵魂自由的地方。
　　沉寂千年的郭亮村,在现代人叩访中,敞开了宁静。在这里静静地待上半月,凌晨听雄鸡报晓,午时闻雌鸡下蛋,晚间听山雨沥沥,闲时喝上二两老白干,大口吮吞着大青椒,捻着来回晃动的油灯,想象属于这里的故事,这真是一种原始古朴的雅致。
　　
　　Guoliang: A Village on the Precipitous Cliff
　　
　　Guoliang―the village on the precipitous cliff, is situated in the dense forest of the border area between Shanxi and Henan provinces at an elevation of 1,752 meters. Over the past thousand years, this village has been firmly rooted on the cliff, forming a marvelous wonder.
　　To get to Guoliang Village, you must cross the Taihang Grand Canyon. With flesh red rocks, the awesome cliffs along the Canyon are roughly 200 meters high and look as if cut by a sharp axe.
　　In the past, to get to the top of the cliff, people had to climb along a narrow path on the cliff named Heaven’s Ladder, which is comprised of irregular stones and pits dug into the horizontal cliff. Climbing on Heaven’s Ladder, one will feel that the clouds overhead make the canyon magnificent. Looking up, all that one can see is the bottom of Heaven’s Ladder. At the mid-point of the path, one will feel himself in a dilemma, whether to go ahead or retreat.
　　The path on the cliff used to be the only road linking Guolaing Village on the cliff and the plain area on the other side of the cliff. As a result, Guoliang Village had been isolated from the outside world until Guoliang Cave was dug in the 1970s. Subsequently, Heaven’s Ladder that had been used for several hundreds of years gradually fell out of use.
　　Guoliang Cave was manually dug by the Guoliang villagers bit by bit in five years. The cave, four meters high and six meters wide, can accommodate the driving of two passenger buses side by side. Guoliang Cave meanders along the precipitous cliff like a dragon. Along the side of the cave, some irregular windows were dug, which were used to empty the debris when the cave was being dug. Nowadays, these windows have become the outlet for tourists to view the amazing scenes outside the cave. Looking out from the windows, one will see the flesh red cliffs, the lush trees, and the white waterfall hung on the cliff. The marvelous wonders always make the tourists reluctant to leave.
　　Arriving in Guoliang Village, one will see the stone grinders, stone mills, stone alley, stone tables, stone stools, stone beds, stone steps, stone houses, stone dams, stone roads, stone bowls, stone chopsticks, stone bridges, stone axes, and stone hoes, the world of a people immersed in stone.
　　Nowadays, Guoliang Village has more than 80 households with a population of roughly 300 people, most of whom are named Shen.
　　Crossing the Guoliang Cave along the cliff, one can get to a courtyard situated on the cliff at an elevation of 1,279 meters. Nearby the courtyard on the cliff there grow a row of sturdy elm trees, like loyal guards protecting the courtyard. This courtyard is the best ancient residence still in existence on the Taiyang Mountain range.

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